Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Laurel Glen & The Genius of Patrick Campbell

Laurel Glen & the Genius of Patrick Campbell

An assorted sampler (12) of the character-infused "Laurel Glen" wines
made by the eclectic Patrick Campbell at his Sonoma Mountain winery;
$235.00.

Laurel Glen wines are difficult to find but well worth the effort...

Your case includes the famous and inherently age-able "Laurel Glen"
estate Cabernet Sauvignon, the "Counterpoint" Cabernet (drink this one
while you age the L-G), the famous "REDS" (wine of the people!), the
delicious and appellation-specific "Terra Rossa" Malbec and his
precocious "ZaZin".

Big Bob Parker weighs in...

"Proprietor Patrick Campbell's superb Cabernet Vineyard on the slopes
overlooking the Sonoma Valley has proven to be one of the finest
sources for Cabernet in California" Employing traditional winemaking
techniques specifically designed not to "strip" the wine results in a
final product that is full of character. Laurel Glen has been
producing one dazzling effort after another...the wines are
agonizingly difficult to find in the marketplace" -R. Parker

In 1983 Linda and I attended one of those co-operative wine tastings
which take place in a huge rented facility. The winery
representatives are stationed alphabetically on folding tables
(usually) circuitously arranged around the perimeter of the building.
I realize that this is probably the most economical and practical
format for the various producers to present their wines to the largest
possible trade and consumer audience.

Speaking strictly for myself, I've always found this type of event to
be kind of intimidating and not very useful, plus there are always a
certain percentage of participants who see these vinous pow-wows' as
little more than a free wine bar, behaving as such and getting louder
and more boorishly conspicuous as the evening wears on. (Yikes, I
sound old).

One of the best ways to maximize your take when attending large
tastings is to approach the event with a theme in mind (i.e. "I'm only
tasting 5 whites and 5 reds" or "Only Pinot Noirs" or "only wines
which we DON'T carry").

On the evening in question, (and since we'd arrived kind of late), I
decided to expedite my attendance by asking various retailers and
wine-scribes I knew which wines had most impressed them up to that
point.

I distinctly remember that EVERY one of those people told me that I
HAD to meet Patrick Campbell and taste his new Laurel Glen Cabernet.
The unanimous opinion was that this new label was one of the finest
Sonoma County Cabernets they had EVER tasted, rivaling the best of
Napa in every way.

I wandered over to the Laurel Glen table, tasted the wine, said
something stupid like "wow, that's real good wine" and ordered three
cases. I've discussed that evening with Patrick a few times over the
last quarter century and while he is reluctant to commit to my
selective memory (nor is he willing to dismiss it) I remember him
saying something like "Thank you...you are my first retail account to
place an order."

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Patrick Campbell is a remarkable man...one of my heroes (there aren't
many) in this goofy gig. Born in Baltimore in 1947 (he never mentions
it and you'll never know it unless you meet him in person, but he had
polio as a kid and lost the use of both legs...he gets around with the
energy of a man half his age using twin aluminum and steel crutches.
When Rebecca was 3 years old, she and I went up to visit Patrick...he
suggested we go up to his little hilltop winery after meeting him at
the house and I decided to drive Becky up the dirt road. Patrick
declined a ride, and just ran up.)

Pat discovered his little vineyard in 1973 while a member of a Zen
Buddhist community which was located near the property. He is also a
concert Violist (he has played with several Bay Area symphony
orchestras over the last 30 years), races ocean Kayaks and has studied
Philosophy of Religion at Harvard. It was during his time at the
Buddhist colony that he became interested in Viticulture as one of his
tasks was taking care of the small vineyard on the property. In 1977
Pat and his wife, Faith purchased the neighboring Laurel Glen
vineyard; since 1977, the vineyard holdings have expanded to the
present 35 contiguous acres.
Anyone even peripherally involved in the Sonoma Wine scene is aware of
Pat's passionate interest and presence in the local
political/environmental community. A champion of our little
enterprise, after a decade of leadership in industry trade
associations, he has focused on the direct shipping issue which is now
wending its way through the court system (keep an eye on Texas).
Concurrently, he was voted the first recipient of the Wine Industry
Integrity Award. I think it's fair to say that you can always depend
on Pat to give you his straight and honest opinion on just about any
subject.

*1-2003 "93"/RC... Laurel Glen Estate Cabernet Sauvignon...100%
Cabernet Sauvignon. "This spectacular and long-lived wine (we hosted
a vertical tasting of all vintages of the LG Cabernet a few years
ago...the initial vintage and all early bottlings were still very
youthful and fruit-driven) has an elegant style even in its early
stages which sets it apart from many overly-oaked and tannic
California wines. In a word, balance is the hallmark of the Laurel
Glen Sonoma Mountain. The 2003 vintage was severely impacted by
limited yields in the estate property yet the wine is typically dark,
with a dense core. It is perfumed with lovely briar, dark berry and
sandalwood aromas. The palate is rich and voluptuous without being
cloning or obvious, and reveals itself slowly".

*2-2003 "91"/RC... "Counterpoint...The second tier of the estate
Cabernets; Counterpoint gets the same meticulous treatment as the LG
estate in the vineyard, winemaking and barrel aging. While Laurel
Glen is the age worthy wine, Counterpoint stakes its claim in its
immediate drink-ability. Very rich and fruit-forward with perfect
texture, luscious dark cherry, sweet oak, blackberry, tar, and baking
spice flavors all framed by perfect acid balance. The finish is long
and nearly cloying in its viscosity."

*3-2005 "Reds"..."88-90"/RC "This wine displays a deep ruby core.
Fresh, bright scents of blackberry, cassis, cherry and violet. It's
very pure and graceful, with mineral-driven dark berry and cherry
flavors and an elegant, velvety texture. Finishes fresh and long,
with an echoing note of cherry. A blend of 40% Zinfandel, 25%
Carignane with the balance being equal amounts of Syrah and Petite
Sirah. The wine was matured in French oak for nine months".

*3-Laurel Glen "Terra Rosa" Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina)...Pat heads
down to Argentina five times/year to oversee vineyard management and
to control harvest and fermentation activities. After fermentation is
completed the wine is brought up to the California winery by ship in
temperature controlled 24,000 liter containers to age in French oak
barrels for 15 months. A classic example of the practically
indigenous grape of the country, this is a BIG, juicy mouthful of wine
with a lashing of very sexy oak. Pat didn't set out to make this
vintage such a crowd pleasing style; the vintage dictated the result
and it REALLY is delicious...at once rich and powerful and with the
delicate, long finish which the best Malbec displays. 2005 was a
warm; trouble free vintage in Mendoza and this wine is a
quintessential example of that spectacular growing season.

*3-Laurel Glen 2006 "ZaZin"...Beginning with the first vintage in
2002, ZaZin has alternated between over-the-top and somewhat more
classic in style. Now, of course, "classic" is a term to be taken in
context. Everything from this central-state Lodi vineyard is BIG as
the property sits at the head of the Sacramento River delta.
"90"/RC... "While more refined in style, the 2006 is hardly
restrained. Black is the operative descriptor; black in color, juicy
black fruit in the nose plus black tar and wild summer blackberries in
flavor framed by a bright, racy and bold finish with just a hint of
cracked white pepper adding an exotic touch".

A Case of the hand-crafted wines made by Patrick Campbell from his
Sonoma Mountain estate. The grapes come from such diverse regions as
Sonoma Mountain, the Sacramento Delta and Argentina yet every bottle
bears the unmistakable touch of genius which only Pat can offer.
$235.00 After Discounts

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