A mixed case of the 2005 Seghesio and Shelton Rockpile Zinfandels...a
FIRST EVER pairing of these stunning examples of Dry Creek's renowned
Rockpile AVA - 6 Bottles of each...$400.00
Where is the Rockpile Appellation?
The Rockpile AVA was established in 2002. The region is located
entirely in Sonoma County. It begins at the northern end of the Dry
Creek Valley and meanders in a north-west direction up to the
Mendocino county line. The total vineyard acreage (as of 2005) was
less than 175 acres (out of a total of 15,400). The predominant
variety (over 50%) planted is Zinfandel followed by Cabernet, Petite,
Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot.
If you've ever spent time in northwest Sonoma County during the summer
months you are no doubt aware that the region can get meltingly hot,
preventing most white varieties to prosper in the withering climate.
On the other hand, Zinfandel, Petit Sirah and other red types thrive
in this type of environment, situated at altitudes from 800-2000 feet
above sea level (and above the famous fog line) Rockpile is moderated
by afternoon marine-influenced zephyrs which blow from the
(relatively) nearby Pacific Ocean (roughly 8-10 miles away). The
vines of the region tend to bud later, receive warmer average daytime
summer temps and are (often) harvested later than their cousins down
in the valley. In other words, an ideal place to grow intense, fully
ripened, butt-kicker Zinfandel.
It has long been rumored that Rock Hudson and Gomer Pyle were once
married and adopted a son named "Rockpile"...is this true?
No. The region received its handle from an ancient Pomo Indian name
for the territory around Rockpile Peak, (Kabe-Chana or something like
that), which means a "place with many rocks". (It is a place where
the birds fly high, the gophers dig low and the rocks suck")
Sporting a "Rockpile" AVA on a bottle of Zinfandel is similar to
displaying "Pisoni" on a bottle of Pinot Noir...
As of today there are only a handful of wineries offering Rockpile AVA
Zinfandels (with less than 75 total acres planted to the variety, the
pickings are still kind of' thin for those who desire contractual
fruit from this highly desired appellation), hence Rockpile Zinfandels
tend to sell out pert-near instantly (on the wholesale market) upon
release.
It was only natural for the Seghesios' to bottle a Rockpile designated
Zinfandel given that the family has occupied a historical and
symbiotic presence in the region since the discovery of dirt...Carol
Shelton on the other hand has enjoyed a relationship with Jack
Florence (a chronicler of the history of Dry Creek) and his eponymous
"Florence Ranch" Rockpile property since the turn of the Century
(2000).
So, what about the wines?
*2005 Seghesio "Rockpile" Zinfandel...This is our first opportunity to
offer you guys the Seghesio's Rockpile, as this single-vineyard Zin
had previously been a tasting-room and wine club-exclusive item. Only
about 200 (6-bottle) cases of this wine were produced from grapes on
Mick Lumetta's Rockpile AVA Vineyard and contain a small percentage of
Petite Sirah which just adds additional color and body to an otherwise
BIG Zin.
*2005 Seghesio Rockpile Zinfandel..."91"/RC..."You'll often hear
winemakers say "I didn't want to let this one out of the pen just yet
as I felt it would benefit from a bit more bottle time, but public
demand has dictated an earlier release date". Believe it or not,
sometimes this is actually a legitimate statement. (!) I have now
tasted the Seghesio Rockpile on two occasions at this point and can
honestly tell you that this stunning wine has evolved in the bottle
from a compact, structured and muscle-laden personality into a rich,
fruit-driven, open and fleshy, gorgeously textured, black cherry,
cracked pepper, raspberry, blueberry and licorice infused
gurgle-grenade.
There is no noticeable "heat" in the long, slightly decadent and
rich finish. Should you decide to open this beauty in the near
future (or the far pasture) I would suggest decanting an hour or so
before pouring to maximize the experience... The wine sports an
alcohol of 15% (relatively moderate by today's standards) hence I
believe this one will come into its own in 12-18 months and drink
beautifully for up to 5 years.
For what it's worth department:
As the Seghesio Rockpile has not been available to the consuming
public in the past, there has been little (read zero) ink devoted to
the wine. Besides my own notes, I found this review of a previous
vintage by the S.F. Chronicle's Steve Pitcher.
*Seghesio Rockpile Zinfandel "Fruit forward aromas of black
raspberries and cherries accented by black pepper, mocha and anise;
smooth and juicy on the palate with medium tannins and concentrated
flavors of blackberries and subtle spice".
*2005 Carol Shelton Rockpile Zinfandel...Carol's winemaking style
belies her diminutive physical make-up. Although she casts a rather
petite shadow, her wines tend to swing toward the massive end of the
vinous scale and seem to parallel her extroverted and fun-loving
personality. As mentioned earlier, Carol purchases the grapes for her
"Rocky Reserve" Rockpile Zinfandel from Jack Florence. She told me
that she felt Jack took a gamble in planting grapevines in the
Rockpile AVA yet was rewarded with vines which cling to the rocky,
red-soil ridge tops which are blessed with long daily sun exposure
resulting in small clustered, quintessential Rockpile grapes.
Stressed fruit often produces the most intense flavors and the long
growing season combined with the warm climate make Rockpile one
helluva place to grow Zinfandel.
Jim Laube chimes in with a "90" Wine Spectator rating...
*2005 Carol Shelton "Rocky Reserve" Rockpile Zinfandel..."90" Wine
Spectator..."This is that rare Zinfandel with class and structure,
offering aromas of wild berry, pepper and mineral, dense flavors of
dried cherry, sage and licorice. The tannins are rather firm for now,
best from 2008 through 2012. 650 Cases made."
The guys at the Connoisseur's Guide have consistently raved over the
Shelton Rockpile...
"93"..."Long on the rich blackberry fruit of classic Zin and sporting
a fine sense of structure, this wonderfully well-concentrated wine is
a tantalizing look at the red-wine virtues of this (relatively) new
Sonoma appellation. No simple quaffer this, it is a deep and fairly
serious wine with plenty of substance and youthful grip, and it
deserves a few years of cellaring in which to settle down and round
into its best form".
Pitcher at the Chronicle said "Wonderfully fruity nose of blackberry
and cassis tinged with blueberry and subtle dried herb. Big and
robust with medium-full tannins, it serves up loads of ripe black
raspberry and blackberry enhanced by cedar, oak, spice, dark chocolate
and dried herb, finishing with a touch of vanilla".
"92"/RC..."The fruit leaps out of the glass of this beautiful, deep
purple-hued and gushingly rich Zin. Not one of those hot,
alcohol-infused monsters which seem to be menacingly lurking in the
marketplace, Carol's 2005 Rocky is a balanced (yes its big, but not
mean) fruit-driven beauty filled with ripe blackberry, blueberry, Bing
cherry, cocoa and a hint of licorice root flavors all wrapped up in a
frame of sweet spices and oak."
Fans of Carol Shelton's wines will have to include the 2005 Rocky in
their collection of diminishing cellar inventory (with 6 bottles you
really CAN have your Zin and drink it too!) Of course all longtime
Seghesio Zin lovers will be delighted to finally get their hands on
the Rockpile, a rare and allocated item formerly available to a their
on-site and wine club customers exclusively. Case of 12-6 Bottles
of each $400.00
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